In short: The Scarlet is a refreshingly different, rather fun and totally unpretentious place to relax that offers dedicated 3 night, 4 day wellbeing escapes throughout the year as well as gorgeously indulgent stays. It was built by three sisters as an adults-only retreat where, as one of them told me, ‘we could take our husbands to remind each other why we married them’. Set above the romantic, wind-swept beach at Mawgan Porth, it has contemporary interiors, impeccable eco-credentials, upmarket comfort food and laid-back, friendly staff. At the spa enjoy soothing Ayurvedic rituals and treatments using locally sourced ingredients, a spacious relaxation area and chemical-free swimming pools.
My experience: I’ve been to The Scarlet a number of times and have always returned home smiling and refreshed. Soaking in the hot tub is my favourite activity, most particularly in the dark under the stars. It all feels very normal here, no one is trying to be who they are not and the sea views from practically everywhere you look simply make you feel happy.
Here’s my experience of one of the spa ‘journeys’, penned after a visit with my mother for The Times:
‘I fill in a lengthy but absorbing ayurvedic-inspired questionnaire and during a 30 minute chat with my smiling, rasta-haired therapist Tamarin decide on a 4 hour ‘Unlock’ journey to ease out my neck, back and shoulder tension which she tailors to my likes and dislikes. It starts with a delightfully relaxing body scrub and poultice rub in the hammam with a smiling Katie, after which I wrap myself in a soft brown blanket and stare out at the horizon for 20 minutes in the relaxation lounge. In a tented treatment room, which makes me feel like I’m on holiday in the desert, Tamarin then talks me through a guided meditation, gives me a very decent foot and head massage, and pummels my back.
Later I nestle in a hanging pod and flick through Tamarin’s copy of The Meditation Bible, focusing in on the ‘Get Out of Debt’ meditation. One for later, I think, and, feeling a little lonely in the darkened space, emerge to find my mother. She has enjoyed a one hour ayurvedic massage with Linda from Sweden, who has taken very good care of her bad back, not letting her sit in the hanging pod incase she worsens it. I feel a little overheated, so I change into a purple sarong, then mum and I play scrabble looking over the natural pool, while rain lashes the windows and we sip oolong tea infused with jasmine.
The next day, Tamarin gives me an especially good full body deep tissue massage, during which she whacks my back with hot poultices until my muscles are comatose. Mum and I swim a lot – the pool is cool and just large enough to do lengths in – and dip in and out of the steam room. I contemplate the inviting outdoor pool throughout my stay but eventually wimp out through fear of the extreme cold. It doesn’t matter, as we get lungfuls of salty air on our early morning ambles along the smooth, wet sandy beach and from an invigorating hike along the coastal walk which starts from the hotel’s back gate’.
The outside: The best place to enjoy the sea views is lounging in one of two outdoor (scarlet) hot tubs, which are perched on a man-made cliff by the natural pool. Choose one with or without seaweed, and enjoy a glass of champagne or something softer while you soak. Almost every space in The Scarlet overlooks the beach, an invigoratingly windy spot where waves are usually crashing perpetually on the shore except on the calmest of days. There are gorgeous coastal walks from the door, surfing is just a step away, and nordic walking tuition is available for those who can be bothered.
The inside & the art: Calm spaces inside are uplifted with splashes of gorgeously vibrant colour and a mightily impressive art collection sourced from local artists. I especially love the white and red papier maché model of a man cradling a woman hanging in the spa reception crafted by the talented Steve Yeates, the giant acorn statues by Anna Gillespie, the dramatic floral paintings by Yvonne Coomber and the amusing ceramic Men & a plug hole by Pamela Lawton - more from these wonderful artists to come on Queen of Retreats soon.
Bedrooms are stylish, unfussy, contemporary and colourful, and there are plenty of spaces to relax including a gorgeous pink games room, a courtyard garden and a residents-only ‘retreat’ which consists of an arty, comfy lounge and an adjoining terrace.
The spa: Enjoy the beach view through floor-to-ceiling windows from the indoor swimming pool or from one of the blue-suede loungers in the refreshingly huge, wood-floored relaxation room, which also has a sunken pit area with giant, velvety cushions for quiet reading or chatting. The indoor pool is cleaned by carefully-monitored levels of bromine, less toxic than chlorine, and there’s a eucalyptus-infused steam room for you to use whenever you want.
As well as the hammam, rasul and cream tented treatment rooms, there are canvas hanging pods with cushions in a dark-walled, dimly-lit ‘deep relaxation space’ and a small meditation room where the team plan to offer DVDs and Cds for breathwork and relaxation. You can drop into a morning yoga or pilates class, or just indulge in treatments and relax.
The treatments: Choose from a range of Voya and Tri Dosha facials, short 45 mintue treats such as a hot poultic massage in the hammam, one hour long ayurveda massages and a variety of four-hour long holistic ‘journeys’ chosen to suit your needs. Each of these includes an ayurveda-inspired consultation, a bathing ritual such as aa hammam, mud treatment in the rasul or a seaweed bath and a 1.5 hour ayurvedic treatment. Time is deliberately scheduled in between each stage so you can relax. Pampering pedicures and manicures are done in your room, reserving the spa for holistic treatments.
The wellbeing escapes: You can book four types of 3 night, 4 day escapes here inspired by Ayurveda to help you de-stress, age gracefully, sleep better or get more energy – choose from Sleep Easy, Grow Gracefully, Stress Soother and Vitality Boost. You’ll have a brief ayurvedic consultation and be matched with a therapist to suit you throughout your stay. As well as good food, ayurveda-inspired treatments and the nourishing environment and facilities of the hotel, the breaks include sessions with local therapists and teachers depending on your needs. Inspire yourself by learning to sing will Ella Basile, take a one-to-one pilates class to sort out wobbly tummy muscles with Amy Swanson, or do as I did and have your sleep-starved, post-baby muscles and brain deeply eased by inventive yoga bodyworker Andrew Moon.
Food and drink: The one main restaurant is simply decorated and looks out to sea, and there’s an easy-going, spacious bar with circular seating areas above it. Food is exceptionally good, with menus prepared by head chef Jeremy Medley. Breakfast can be healthy fruits and porridge with prunes, or indulgent egg and fish concoctions and plenty of light-as-a-feather croissants and pain au chocolates. Three course set lunches and a la carte suppers include dishes like crab sausage with braised leeks, whole grilled plaice with mussel, saffron, smoked bacon and potato chowder, and breast of Cornish duck with shallot puree. Vegetarian options are always available, simple healthy salads can be prepared on request, and there’s a good selection of organic wines and loose-leaf teas.
Fellow guests: The owners have deliberately set out to make everyone feel welcome, whatever they are wearing and however they are feeling, and everyone looks reassuringly relaxed here. There are couples, groups of friends, mothers and daughters, fathers and sons, of all ages and from all walks of life. Come to indulge or get healthy – you choose.
What’s queenly: The clutch of hotel staff are genuinely relaxed and helpful, and upbeat spa manager Steph Crosby and her team do really seem to care about your wellbeing – something not always apparent at many hotel spas.
What’s lowly: Sometimes the focus on ayurveda can feel a little bit forced – therapists here are therapists, after all, not ayurvedic doctors. Parents who can’t find childcare can’t come, though they can stay at the nearby sister hotel Bedruthan Steps – not half as classy, but very child-friendly, and with a half-decent spa too.
From £190 per room B&B for two people based on two sharing; 3 night, 4 day Wellbeing Escapes from £790 per person including all treatments, meals and accommodation.
Interested? You can book or ask The Scarlet a question here:
© Queen of Retreats
What a great article Queen of Retreats. I too have had the pleasure of staying here and was impressed with a lot of things, but the highlight for me was taking a singing lesson with local singing tutor Ella. I’ve never done anything like this before and always wanted to give it a go. Ella put me totally at ease and was so kind and encouraging I’m now looking into taking regular lessons back in London. Thank you Ella! Jo